Birding T&T, Episode 2

Only a few short days after the conclusion of this tour, I kicked off the month's second 10-day birding odyssey across Trinidad & Tobago. This edition was in the works for several years; my relationship with co-leader and good friend Benny began somewhere on the internet in ye olde pre-covid times and we had long been hatching itineraries to share with birders. This was his third time in T&T and I was thrilled to finally flip the switches on our ideas birthed from conversations on the winding coastal road skirting the northeast peninsula of Trinidad in late 2023.

Each of Benny's previous visits had been at the end of the year, so we pushed this trip to late April to coincide with the arrival of hordes of breeding seabirds as well as leatherback turtles. Nesting season for these leviathans begins in March, and numbers are properly swollen by April, with young and old mothers hauling themselves onto the beach each night – but more on this later. Also happening in April is courtship and nest-building for many species of birds, as well as the appearance of some migrants from South America. April is undeniably my favourite month for birding in T&T and I couldn't wait to share it with what turned out to be an absolutely lovely group of birders.

Our first morning began with mouthwatering views of Lilac-tailed Parrotlets hopping from tree to tree all around us. I, of course, was armed with my binoculars and a cup of coffee, so you'll have to take my word for it. Red-bellied Macaws, Lineated and Crimson-crested Woodpeckers, and so many more superstar birds made for an incredulous roster before our first breakfast together. As we were getting in the bus to head on our first mission into the Northern Range we had to evacuate almost immediately due to a Tufted Coquette dancing around within arm's length. This minuscule yet ornately plumaged hummingbird – the smallest bird in T&T – can drive even the most stoic of us into a state of frolic.

We weren't out to fill checklists on this mission, but they were being filled regardless. We were out to have a good time, and the birds were filing in one by one. At certain times of day, they'd be pouring in from all sides. The trails at Asa Wright Nature Centre revealed several astonishingly loud Bearded Bellbirds as well as wing-snapping White-bearded Manakins driven into a frenzy by the presence of an olive-green female overhead. We relished these sightings, windows into a forgotten past and often ignored present.

Trinidad's wild Atlantic coast brought my beloved co-leader a lifer in the form of a sub-adult Rufous Crab Hawk that cruised past on our first stop there. It's exciting to find a bird that's new for the trip, but even more so when one of the guides can see something for the first time. This particular individual has saved my last three tours in T&T, all three had Rufous Crab Hawk listed as a species of interest. It makes sense given their very limited range of coastal South America from Venezuela through the Guianas to northeast Brazil. On that leg of our journey, however, the bird that literally whipped everyone into a frenzy was a very cooperative American Pygmy Kingfisher. Several members of our group had mentioned how much they loved kingfishers, and seeing the tiniest member of the family (in the western hemisphere at least) dart from perch to perch was exhilarating for everyone.

Heat was not our friend on this trip, but we had a bus outfitted with extra large windows and an exceptional driver, himself equipped with binoculars his typical good humour. Over the course of our time together, he would periodically find some spectacular birds for us – including a Ringed Kingfisher while he was driving, and a pair of Trinidad Piping-Guans in gorgeous golden light as we were looking in the opposite direction. What a gem to work with! Culinary exploration was a must, of course, and we ensured that meals went above and beyond as much as possible. In a recent podcast interview with World Vegan Travel I spoke about the trials and tribulations of meeting specific dietary requirements in T&T, especially off the beaten path. This can easily be circumvented by working directly with chefs and restaurants, the best of whom take dietary restrictions as a challenge to broaden their own horizons. My good friend of over two decades personally prepared and delivered a picnic lunch for us that satisfied everyone's requirements and had us all in a food coma for the rest of the day.

Earlier on, I mentioned leatherback turtles. While I did not personally accompany anyone doing the turtle watching during the night, I thoroughly enjoyed hearing their accounts of seeing not one, or two, but at least half a dozen turtles under the full moon. As they emerged from the ocean with bioluminescent algae washing over their distinctive silhouettes, it surely was an unforgettable scene. For me, walking the beach in the pre-dawn is my preferred activity. It's better for photographs, yes, but also there is something spiritual in human solitude – within this there is room for deep connections to be rekindled in silence. One morning I shuffled across the shifty sand all the way to the western end of the beach where there was a single turtle just getting ready to return to the sea. I sat with her as she traced circles around her newly covered nest under the first hint of a sky warming pink. With a few great heaves of her flippers, she was back in the ocean, graceful and unseen.

A significant aspect of the allure of birding T&T is the dichotomy presented by these two very distinct islands. Surely due to their geological histories being different, the vibes on each island are notably different from each other. We landed on Tobago and boarded a similar bus, but there was a different, vibrant energy, and we were all ready for it. Proximity to the ocean was noted by everyone, at times we were able to see both Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea after driving for only a few minutes between one and the next. Caribbean Martins with their stark white and dark indigo heads replaced the less contrasty Grey-breasted Martins we were accustomed to on Trinidad. A small heron that flew across a waterway on our first stop was a Green Heron; on Trinidad the default small heron would be Striated Heron.

What proved to be my personal highlight of this tour happened on the day we transferred to Tobago. One of our participants had forgotten her field guide at an estate we visited en route to Grande Riviere, and I'm sure she thought it was gone forever, especially after we boarded the plane without any mention of it. I'm always hatching plans, however, and as soon as we landed on the smaller island we made a beeline for one of my favourite haunts, where her book had been dropped off just about two hours prior. I will never forget her happiness.

Staying on the northeast end of Tobago feels worlds apart from the myriad of habitats we had previously passed through; it is a proper idyllic setting to end a trip. While we were slowing down the pace, we still had a few tricks up our sleeve. Rainforest birding was exceptional as usual, with outstanding views of some of Tobago's best kept secrets. Our journey to Little Tobago was memorable, but honestly paled in comparison to our final full day together.

That last day shall remain with me as one of the grandest finales I've ever had a hand in orchestrating. In a conversation following this trip, I likened it to a musician tracking an album: the entire album should read as an extended song, keeping the listener's attention throughout, and most importantly, landing in different place from where it began – thus creating a transformative experience. I feel as though words will not ever do this experience justice, it was something planned and executed to perfection. All elements played their part: from the sea to the birds to the rocks to the sun and the clouds! All glorious. Never before has a birding group visited T&T and done something like this, and I'm so happy to facilitate. Looking across as we were returning to dock on that final evening, I saw sun-kissed, salt-encrusted faces of awe and wonder like never before. I know that these people were all seasoned travellers and have seen some incredible things in their lifetimes, so to see the raw beauty of the wildest end of these islands speak to them like this was utterly humbling. I'm also avoiding describing this adventure because I know some people will be reading this to try to do it (poorly) themselves instead of involving me or my people.

Overall, we ended with 190 species (you can view the trip report here) but uncountable peals of laughter and good vibes, which, to me, is far more important and necessary. Links and friendships have been made that surely will stand the test of time. Grateful to everyone involved in getting this together, I'm already looking forward to the next one!

I am overwhelmed by gratitude.

Bearded Bellbird

White-bearded Manakin at near point blank range.

It may have been billed as the Scarlet Ibis show, but the American Flamingoes certainly stole it.

Trinidad Piping-Guan, found by our driver!

Tufted Coquette

The Leatherback at the western end.

Yellow-legged Thrush

A partially leucistic Yellow-legged Thrush, singing heartily.

Laughing Gulls are unsung attractions on Little Tobago.

Swirling monuments comprising thousands of birds stretched into the clouds over Tobago.

Roseate Terns and friends feeding on the coast.

Bridled Tern

Brown Booby

Brown Noddy (and a hefty swell)

Red-footed Booby doing some load-shedding.

A Great Blue Heron in a hidden cove as we cruised in at the very end.